Measure the width of the doorjamb. Check the measurements of the old door against the measurements of the new door you're considering. If they match up closely, then you're good to go. If not, you're going to need to consider a new door. Remove interior and exterior trim. This requires removing the door as well as the existing exterior trim and old insulation. To help minimize dust during the demolition, remove the door towards the end of the process prior to extracting the main frame.
Using your hammer and a nail set or a screwdriver , remove the hinge pins and detach your old door for the hinges. Keep driving the pin upward with the hammer until it comes out. Score the caulking between molding and wall in order to break the seal. With a pry bar and hammer, carefully remove molding. Pry away the doorjamb, framing, and the threshold. Now you can scrape away the old caulking. Create rough opening around frame. You need to measure the width between the side jambs, the head jamb to the seal under the old threshold, as well as the thickness of the wall.
The rough opening needs to be a minimum of 1 inch 2. If needed, use shims or a beveled board to level it. If the door needs to clear an especially high floor, like a thick carpet, a spacer board may be needed. Make sure everything is level. While you're working you should periodically check with your leveler that everything is staying level. If things aren't level you might end up with a tilted door or frame, which will cause problems later on.
Part 2. Dry-fit the new door. This means that you place the door where it's going to be set to make sure that everything is going to fit properly. If you find any problems at this stage like the door doesn't fit, things aren't even then you'll need to deal with those first.
Apply caulk. Apply two thick beads of caulk, along the front and rear edges of the subsill, where the sill will be placed. Continue applying the caulk approximately 2 inches 5. Insert door into opening. Place the bottom of the door first, tilting the top out toward you, then slide the door into place. It's best to work from the outside of the house when you're inserting the door into the opening. You may want to enlist a friend to help you lift and place the door depending on its weight.
Be sure that the door is centered in the opening, and assure that the frame fits snugly into place at the bottom of the opening. Shim the rest of the door-frame. Place shims on the hinge side of the door, behind any points where hinges will be attached to the door frame.
The door will be secured to the rough opening in these areas later. Secure door temporarily. After you've made all of the necessary adjustments, secure the door temporarily, using 16d finishing nails. Lightly drive the nails through the hinge jamb, near where the hinges will be installed.
Don't put the nails all the way in. Part 3. Test the swing of the door. It should open and close smoothly. Sometimes pre-hung doors will have an adjustable sill, which can be useful it the door isn't quite adjusted perfectly. You want to make sure that the door doesn't scrap the floor inside your house.
If necessary, make adjustments by moving the jamb in or out, at the top or the bottom. Secure door-jambs. Drive 3 inch 7. Secure the remaining jambs all the way around the door, always driving the screws or nails whatever is suggested by the manufacturer through the shims.
Verify occasionally that the door assembly is remaining properly adjusted. Install the lock strike, putting the screws through the shim. Install insulation. Finish the job by installing loosely packed, fiberglass insulation around the edges of the door frame. Install interior trim, following the manufacturer's instructions. Apply paintable caulk along all of the joints and intersections of the trim and the brick-mold.
Wear gloves, because you do not want to get caulk on your hands. In my case, I used a Rotozip with a flush-cut attachment, which I highly recommend for this type if work. I slightly modified the flush-cut attachment by duct taping a wood shim onto the cutting guide, which gave me the exact depth-of-cut I needed to slice the drywall without penetrating the framing—or anything else—on the other side.
I then used a hammer to open the wallboard even further, pulling it away from the nails that held it on the studs, and then prying up the nails. Next, remove the insulation. Fiberglass can irritate the eyes and skin, so wear safety protection and dispose of the old batts in plastic bags.
At this point I ran into an unexpected obstacle: a 1-by-4 cross-brace supporting the corner of the house framing due to a lack of structural sheathing. So, I had to re-frame the wall using an atypical method to accommodate the lack of structural sheathing, throwing a wrench into the standard framing procedure I was hoping to detail in this article.
There are two important things to point out. First, see the diagram above for the details on framing a standard door opening. You can probably expect to build according to that sketch, rather than my method that employed a monster 4-by header, some extra doubled studs and metal strapping to frame this door. Second, I do not necessarily advocate framing your door using the method shown in the photos, in case you encounter a similar problem with your project. As always, consult your local building inspector for an approved method, as requirements for shear walls and general construction will vary among localities, based on everything from high-wind exposure and seismic concerns to simple politics.
Do as your inspector says, not as I do. That being said, the methods for cutting through the wall and installing the door will remain the same among standard pre-hung door installations. After cutting out the cross-brace with the Rotozip, I cut the existing studs out of the house wall by using a recip saw to slice through the nails at the top and bottom of each stud start at the top.
Refer to your door for the recommended rough opening size—mine was 34 inches wide, 82 inches high. When reframing the wall, you should double the studs that frame the door. The two inner studs, called trimmer studs, should be cut to support the door header from beneath. Unlike the monster by beam I used as a header, most single entryways can get by with a 4-by-4 header. For example, a 4-by-4 No. For smaller headers the distance between the header and the top plate may be taken up by cripple studs partial studs.
Always make sure your rough opening is plumb, square and true. Replacing the siding for the entire house was not an option. I doubled all the studs, and fastened the header flush beneath the ceiling top plate and over the studs, allowing the inch high rough opening accounting for the floor plate, which was still in place.
I nailed the heck out of everything, and installed 4-inch wide sheet metal strapping the framing, running from the top plate, across the header and over the interior face of the new studs. I riddled the strapping with nails driven into all the framing components. Other options include replacing the sheathing, or installing new steel let-in or wood diagonal braces to keep the shear flow from the corner to the foundation.
EHT reader and professional engineer, Gerard J. Duhon of Texas-based Engineered Foundation Solutions, offers a by-the-book method of framing a door without structural sheathing. In both cases, a sheet of the steel or plywood material must be cut to fit from stud to stud and plate to plate.
Both sides of the doorway should have this sheet installed. The steel should be 14 gauge, about. A quicker attachment is to drive concrete nails with a powder-actuated gun. Observe safety and personal protection if the gun is used. If steel is used, the thickness is minimal, finish with the normal sheetrock thickness, use construction adhesive to hold in place. The repair above will yield the equivalent resistance to shear as the let-in bracing, but would be inadequate for resistance to seismic and windstorm perils.
Our staff is always anxious to learn better practices in home improvement, and pass along this information to our readers. You can visit the website of Gerard J. Duhon, P. Once the rough opening was constructed I used the Rotozip to cut away the sheathing and Styrofoam insulation from the entryway.
I then used the same tool to cut the outline of the door frame through the metal siding at the top and bottom. My next move was made from the outside of the house, where I marked plumb lines on the sides of the door frame, connecting my top and bottom cuts. I followed my cutlines with a lightweight volt Makita circ saw, using a homemade edge guide that I built a couple of years ago. The thin kerf of the blade made short work of the siding, and as I zipped up the second side of the frame, the metal panels fell to the ground with a glorious crash.
Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Related Articles. Article Summary. Author Info Last Updated: July 1, Part 1. Remove the old door and the surrounding trim, molding, and door jamb. You must remove everything covering the "rough frame" of the doorway. When installed correctly, they provide the tightest possible seal to keep out the elements. The door jamb is usually held in place with nails, screws, and caulk. The screws shouldn't be difficult to remove, though the caulk can sometimes be a challenge to strip out.
Certain silicone-based caulks or sealants can be loosed with specialized chemical applications available at many hardware stores. Exterior molding may come off only with great difficulty; there is usually no special trick to it, just the application of leverage via a pry bar.
Pry off interior trim carefully, so as not to damage the surrounding wall paint or paper. Along with a pry bar, it may be helpful to use a putty knife to get between the trim and wall with minimal damage. Determine if the doorway is level. Use a level to measure the sill bottom , sides, and top of the frame. If it is not as it should be, you may need to add wood around the frame to make it level. If it is exposed to weather, it is the most likely portion to be warped or rotted.
In this case, remove the existing materials and replace them with like-sized boards. Measure the doorway. You must measure the height, width, and depth in order to know the precise size you must have for the door you will purchase. Do not underestimate the importance of measuring the depth. If the distance between the interior and exterior walls is great but the depth of door jamb on the new door you purchase is small, you will have to add jamb extensions.
This shouldn't be too much of a problem unless the distance you have to make up is especially large, but it is something to be aware of. Purchase the necessary materials and tools. Aside from the pre-hung door, there are a few other things you will need: Wooden shims to hold the new door in place as you attach it to the frame. Screws or nails to secure the door in place. Make sure the nails or screws you select are of an appropriate length for the jamb and frame you will be nailing through.
An electric drill set to pre-drill any holes and drive in the screws that will attach the door. Caulk or other form of exterior sealant to prevent leaks around the edges of the jamb.
0コメント