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For more recent exchange rates, please use the Universal Currency Converter. I don't know if it happened before I owned it or not. I didn't pay attention that well. When I removed the old Iota and disconnected the wires, I noticed that the shore power extension black wire that went from the shore power to the contactor was completed melted. All lugs were tight including the connection to the contactor. Not sure what really happened possibly low voltage at one time?
I don't use any type of surge protection, but then again, I mostly boondock. The wire definitely had signs of high heat and the plastic shows for it.
I can't say what caused it for sure as I truly don't know. I thought I would at least share so others experiencing tranfer switch problems don't let theirs stay that way for too long. Mine looked like a fire waiting to happen. Some pictures below of the old switch, wire damage, and new switch install. Old Iota Follow the second black wire from left to right. You will see a close up of the burned section in the next picture.
Close up of the burned wire New Powermax transfer switch Final picture. I mounted upside down, as the wiring was the easiest to do it this way. Join iRV2. Do you have a link to the source of the new switch? I should replace mine, the price and size look compatible. Thanks for the good writeup. I took a look at the switch on the web site you provided and it appears to be totally different than the one you installed. I wonder if they haven't already changed to a new design. The price sure does look good.
Originally Posted by Corkey. Thanks crah,.. I was just looking to verify it's the same switch you installed. As long as the dimensions are close to the Iota 50R it should be fine. The recall for the Iota 50R is the first I have heard of for a transfer switch, so I see no problem replacing it with this one. My electrical bay has a power cord reel that leaves very little room for a transfer switch and this one appears to be the answer.
All the others I've found have metal boxes and are too big to fit without some major modifications. It's hard to tell what this is really rated for.
The manual states that L1 and L2 are rated for 35A each. I've seen similiar veribiage from others. I have also seen the relay specs used by some. The relays are rated at 50A for resistive load and 35A for inductive loads. Unless you have two AC units on one leg, you probably don't have to worry about exceeding the 35A rating, if that's what they are actually saying. Crah, Your failure appears to be at the crimp on connector and not the screw down for that crimp on connector.
Was there any visible failure at the screw? It also apears that the wire may have been pinched against the side of the case at the end of the crimp on connector. Was that the case? If so, that may explain the failure. BTW, this is a great example of when a plastic housing may be better than a metal one. Originally Posted by ImagineIF.
Their phone is or e-mail at: productinfo trci. The "high line tech" who worked on my MH told me that the plastic ones WARP and cause the contacts on the transfer relays to fail. Other problems can be wire tie downs not torqued to specs etc. Bottom line is This new unit is a real quality looking 'BOX'.
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